Northern Thailand

Northern Thailand moves to a gentler rhythm. In Chiang Mai, the former capital of the Lanna kingdom, more than three hundred temples stand in and around the moated old city, their carved teak halls and golden chedis glowing in the early light. Above the city, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep looks out from its mountaintop over the valley, reached by a naga-lined staircase of more than three hundred steps.

Beyond the city, the landscape opens into forested hills, rice fields and quiet valleys. Artisans in the villages around Chiang Mai still carve wood, weave silk and paint paper umbrellas by hand, and a cooking class with herbs picked from the garden is one of the best ways to discover northern flavours. Ethical elephant sanctuaries let travellers observe rescued elephants in the forest, with no riding and no shows.

Further north, Chiang Rai adds its own surprises: the dazzling White Temple of Wat Rong Khun, the deep blue Wat Rong Suea Ten, tea plantations on the slopes of Doi Mae Salong and the Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet on the Mekong River.

With cool mornings, lantern-lit festivals and a slower pace of life, the north is the perfect contrast to Bangkok's energy and the southern beaches. Three to five nights are enough to discover Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.