North Vietnam

Northern Vietnam is where most journeys through the country begin, and where many travellers fall in love with it. Hanoi, the thousand-year-old capital, wakes early: tai chi by Hoan Kiem Lake, street vendors balancing baskets of fruit, and the scent of pho from tiny kitchens in the Old Quarter. Colonial boulevards, the Temple of Literature and the city's famous egg coffee reveal a capital that is both elegant and full of life.

A few hours east, Ha Long Bay is one of Asia's great natural wonders. Thousands of limestone islands rise from emerald water, and an overnight cruise lets travellers kayak into hidden lagoons, explore caves and watch the mist lift at sunrise. Nearby, Ninh Binh offers a gentler inland version, with rowing boats gliding between karst peaks and rice fields.

To the northwest, the mountains of Sapa are home to Hmong and Dao communities, with rice terraces that turn green in summer and gold before the harvest. Walking between villages, sharing a meal in a family home and waking to clouds drifting through the valleys are among the most memorable experiences in Vietnam.